We are going to start a journey into the world of wine.
It’s a world that is almost unfathomably large but to make it easier we will travel from the simple to the more complex, starting at the beginning, with the only thing that is completely indispensable for making wine: grapes.
For the liquid resulting from their fermentation to be considered Rioja, by law it has to be made from one or more of the varietals approved by the Consejo Regulador.
If we ignored this requirement, for example, we would not be able to label Montecillo as Rioja.
The first thing we will do is to separate the white from the black grapes.
The first interesting fact to note is that liquid that comes from either is always white, except in the case of Garnacha Tintorera. A wine turns red due to being in contact with the grape skin. We will cover this point in subsequent entries.
Today we are just talking about the fruit.
The white grapes approved by the D.O.Ca Rioja include:
Viura:
Standard-bearer for the region, very productive, it gives fruity wines, although it is not very aromatic, it is excellent for wines for long-ageing whether they are aged in oak or not. It is known in other regions of Spain (above all Catalonia) as Macabeo. And we should say that the names of grapes vary according to the regions. Something similar occurs with fish in different parts of Spain, and bread products across the UK.
Malvasía de Rioja:
Not to be confused with other Malvasías that are not the same, together with the previous grape it is one of the most widely used, giving wines structure and volume. It can be identified by the honey and rosemary notes that it gives on the palate.
Garnacha Blanca:
Ever more habitual in the new whites from Rioja, it can even been found as a mono-varietal, that is, the only grape used to make a particular wine.
Tempranillo Blanco:
Like the previous varietal, it is winning fans over due to its great personality, it comes from a mutation of its «sister» black grape discovered in 1988 on an old vine in Murillo del Río Leza. Therefore you will never find it in older vintages. It stands out for its great acidity. It is not found anywhere else in the world.
Maturana Blanca:
It is the oldest grape in our region, mentioned in written documents that date back to the 17th Century, very sensitive to rot, making it difficult to cultivate, hence its underuse. In the mouth it gives flavours of white fruit and citrus. Very herbaceous. With high acidity, it has a noticeably greenish yellow colour.
Turruntés de Rioja:
We should start by clarifying that it should not be confused with either the Galician or the Argentinian Torrontés. It is very rarely used although it has a lot of potential given its acidity and its delicious flavours of apple, along with a touch of bitterness on the finish.
That brings us to the end of the native varieties, but it is worth mentioning that the Regulatory Council also allows the use of international grapes (the Bosman ruling also applies here.) Things to know:
Chardonnay:
One of the best-known grapes in the world, from Burgundy in France. It is the absolute leader in terms of white grapes, above all after the defeat of Germany in WW2, when it took over from Riesling, which had occupied the top slot up until that point. Very low yielding, it is resistant to oxidation and has high acidity, giving it a biblical capacity for barrel ageing.
Sauvignon Blanc:
Another of the great French varieties, which, alongside Chenin Blanc, makes up production in the Loire, the other great region in said country for this style of wines. It is very easy to identify in a blind tasting due to its aromas of green pepper, and mineral notes.
Verdejo:
Famous within Spain for its large-scale use in the wines of the DO Rueda, a delicious, complex grape with almost unlimited potential. It stands out for its sweet hints, grassy aromas and its fruit intensity.
And now it’s time to get started on the red wine grapes authorised in the D.O.Ca Rioja:
Tempranillo:
The emblematic grape of the region and Montecillo wines, to give you an idea of its importance, it covers more than 75% of the vineyard area. However, it is also used in many other DOs, in fact in the Ribera del Duero it is known as Tinto Fino and it is known as Tinta de Toro in the Toro region (although it is not exactly the same). Tannic, powerful and fruity; in a cooler climate, like our own, it shows the acidity that makes it suitable for the most classy reds in the region both as mono-varietals and when blended with other grapes.
Garnacha Tinta:
If the former grape is the most important in Rioja, then you could say that this is the most important grape in the world, as it is present in all wine-producing continents. It adapts very well to its environment, producing both high quality and more simple wines. Anthological in its versatility it can even be used to make rosé wines. Very tasty and addictive, in Rioja it can be found both as a mono-varietal and in blends.
Graciano:
Native grape varietal with very little presence in the rest of Spain, in fact the DO Navarra is practically the only region to be starting to rediscover its use as – other than at minor levels in blends – it had almost been forgotten. It has more than proved itself and now we can talk not of potential but of reality. Great acidity, very unique aromas, when used well it can give very mineral wines. Really fascinating.
Mazuelo:
Of French origin, it is one of the least used grapes as it only accounts for 3% of the vineyard area although it can be found in small quantities in blends, as it is very high yielding but also very reductive (it reduces, so it needs oxygen,) very tannic and acidic, pure power.
Maturana Tinta:
Highly sensitive to rot and very early ripening, making it somewhat out of step with its companions, it gives very astringent acidity (a drying sensation in the mouth.) One thing to bear in mind about this grape is that it is not grown in any other part of the world, making it, like Tempranillo Blanco, able to give the wines of Rioja their own personality.
So, these are the rules of the game in terms of raw materials.
In the next instalment we will explain which ones Montecillo uses and what we seek to achieve with each of them.
Welcome aboard!
